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FAQs
General | Weed Control | Seeding | Mowing | Soil Preparation
General
What qualities do the clients we work with look for in a land management contractor?
Often times, the property owners/managers we work with are seeking a contractor who will familiarize themselves with the property, proactively manage and schedule necessary work, and maintain open, clear communication about ongoing activities. Essentially, we make their property “our own” and manage it based on the agreed-upon standards we set.
What is the basic approach to improving pasture quality and supporting livestock grazing?
The owners of properties that support livestock are committed to a multi-year approach to developing sustainable pastures. These plans typically start with gaining some control of weeds, or at the very least, integrating their control with seeding efforts. Once weed pressure is in check, desirable vegetation can take hold with minimal competition. Sometimes it is necessary to limit livestock access to seeded areas for up to a year, so that seeded species have an opportunity to germinate and complete a full season of growth. After the desired species are somewhat established, ongoing maintenance activities like mowing, manure spreading, fertilizing, and grazing monitoring can begin.
Why is an adaptive approach essential in land management, and how is success monitored?
Since environmental and human impacts vary yearly, establishing a baseline in the first year is crucial for measuring progress. The use of mapping software to log weed infestations and track management activities helps ensure operations are efficient and adjustments can be made as needed.
What challenges does an overgrazed pasture face, and what are some typical restoration goals?
An overgrazed pasture may become dominated by noxious weeds like cheatgrass and scotch thistle, with little perennial grass remaining. If overgrazing has reoccurred for many years, soil quality may deteriorate. The goal in these situations is to improve a pasture’s grazing potential by reducing weed prevalence, improving soil health, encouraging the growth of beneficial forage, and implementing sustainable grazing practices.
How is safety addressed while working on a property?
Safety is ensured through careful training of technicians when it comes to machinery operation, chemical applications and fire mitigation. We carry fire extinguishers on all machinery, as well as spill kits in our work trucks. Proactive communication with clients helps us verify that humans and animals won’t be in the way of our work while on site.
Weed Control
Why is it important to control weeds on my property? Do I have to?
Controlling noxious weeds on your property may be required by the county you live in, depending on whether your weeds are List A, B or C species. County weed districts may issue citations for these noxious species. Preventing weeds from spreading protects neighboring properties, fostering positive relationships and a conservation mindset within the community. Weed control at a community level is much more effective than just doing it on an individual property, as it limits the continued spread of weeds from one neighbor to the next.
Can I spray weeds on my own land?
Yes, you can spray weeds with herbicides as long as they are not restricted use herbicides. Only certified pesticide applicators are licensed to spray restricted use herbicides. It is unlawful to use any pesticide (including herbicides, insecticides, fungicides and rodenticides) in any manner other than is specified on the pesticide’s labeling.
What are the benefits of hiring a licensed commercial pesticide applicator to spray my weeds?
Rigorous educational and field experience requirements must be completed before being issued a license to commercially spray pesticides. Pesticides (including herbicides) can be very useful for controlling weeds, but they can also cause harm to the applicator or nearby plants and wildlife if not used properly. Professional applicators will ensure your weeds are controlled in a safe and effective manner.
ARE THERE THINGS I CAN DO TO PREVENT WEEDS FROM GROWING ON MY PROPERTY, OTHER THAN SPRAYING THEM OR PULLING THEM?
Yes, there are preventative measures and other methods of control you can take to stop weeds from spreading and growing on your property. One of the most effective measures of prevention/control is making sure your neighbors know the importance of weed control and how their weeds can affect your property.
WHY DO THE SAME KINDS OF WEEDS KEEP COMING BACK, EVEN THOUGH I STAY ON TOP OF SPRAYING AND PULLING THEM?
Landowners may notice limited success with controlling certain weed species due to a variety of factors. There are millions of different weed seeds in the soil seed bank, just waiting to germinate when the conditions are right. Not only that, but weeds are extremely adept at taking advantage of poor growing conditions (areas where desirable plants have a hard time growing) and spreading quickly. Integrated pest management is the most effective way to prevent and manage weeds on your property. Correctly identifying what weeds are present, knowing what conditions favor individual weed species, and understanding how and when they reproduce are essential when developing a weed management plan for your land.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF HERBICIDES USED TO CONTROL WEEDS AND HOW DO THEY WORK?
- Nonselective herbicides: Chemicals that kill all types of plants. A common example is glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup and many other herbicides.
- Selective herbicides: Chemicals that kill specific types of plants, such as grass plants or broadleaf plants.
- Contact herbicides: Chemicals that kill the plant only where the chemical touches it. To be effective, the entire plant must be thoroughly covered with the product. They are quick-acting and useful in controlling annuals, biennials and seedling perennials.
- Systemic herbicides: Chemicals that are absorbed through the leaves or roots and move freely throughout the plant. Application to part of the plant will kill the entire plant. Systemic herbicides are effective against most plants and are recommended for perennials. They take time to be effective, and may be soil- or foliage-applied.
Soil-applied materials may be selective or nonselective, depending upon the material and the rate of application.
Although we provide a wide range of chemical application (spraying) services, it is our belief that this method of control should not be the immediate answer to a weed problem. Taking an integrated pest management (IPM) approach to your weed problems will provide a longer-term solution compared to simply spraying herbicides time and time again. Prevention is the biggest component of the IPM approach, and we can consult you on what measures you can take to prevent the growth and spread of weeds on your property. Along with this consultation, we offer numerous IPM weed control services and monitoring to ensure weed management efforts are going as planned.
Seeding
WHY IS HYDROSEEDING CHEAPER THAN SODDING, AND WHICH METHOD OF LAWN ESTABLISHMENT IS BEST FOR ME?
Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod for a few reasons. Mostly, there are fewer labor costs that go into producing the product. Sod rolls must be harvested, transported and installed usually within 24 hours of cutting it out of the ground. Installing sod requires more laborers than hydroseeding, and laying out individual sod rolls takes longer than spraying down seed. But there are reasons to choose sodding over hydroseeding. After sod is installed, you only need to wait a couple weeks before you can use a riding mower on it and not have to worry about damaging roots or sliding the sod rolls out of place. Hydroseeding usually takes between three to six weeks for grass to fully grow, soon after which it can be maintained as a lawn with regular mowing. Sod also does a better job of suffocating out weeds initially. With hydroseeding, you can expect to see more weeds at first. Usually a few mowing cycles will promote grass development to the point where they out-compete the weeds, but a selective herbicide application is often required shortly after your lawn is first mowed. Overall, the initial cost of hydroseeding and the possibility of additional weed control costs are still lower than the cost of sodding. It often comes down to whether the landowner is ok with waiting a few more weeks for a lush green lawn, or if they want more instant gratification. Both options will produce a lush green lawn if the soil is properly prepared before installation, irrigation is adequate, and mowing is regularly used to promote grass density and root development.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HYDROSEEDING AND HYDROMULCHING?
Although these two processes are similar and the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, hydroseeding refers to the process of combing water, seeds, fertilizer or other dissolvable additives in tank and then spraying the mixture onto a prepared soil bed or existing vegetation. Hydromulching uses the same combination of products as hydroseeding, except mulch is added to the tank and mixed up before spraying. There are different kinds of mulch, each with their own benefits, but most mulches used in hydromulching operations are composed of ground up paper, wood, or a combination of the two materials. Sometimes, a two-step application is used where first we hydroseed to ensure good seed to soil contact, and then hydromulch over the top of that to provide a layer of protection and moisture control for the seeds.
WHAT IS A NO-TILL DRILL SEEDER?
A no-till drill is a kind of seeder that is typically used to establish vegetation without disturbing the soil. The benefits of this method of seeding are that soil loss through erosion is eliminated and there are less weeds to deal with immediately after seeding (weeds love disturbed soil sites). This method of planting is ideal for existing pastureland or rangeland, as well as on bare soil.
Mowing
How many times per year should I mow my non-irrigated field?
Non-irrigated grasses should be cut no lower than a height of five inches, ideally only one to three times per year.
Why do some areas only receive one mowing visit per year?
Perennial grasses in these areas may be overstressed from past rigorous mowing cycles. Limiting mowing allows the grasses to rebuild their nutrient stores and strengthen their root systems.
When is the best time to mow perennial grasses?
Taller species of perennial grasses should be mowed just after they set seed and begin to dry out, typically in late June or early July. This timing encourages dense vegetative growth and stronger root systems.
Will some areas require additional mowing visits?
Yes, during especially wet growing seasons, a second mowing in late September or October may be necessary. In addition, certain areas lining drainage systems, fire buffers, or walking paths may benefit from increased mowing frequency.
How does drought affect mowing practices?
In drought conditions, mowing too low and too frequently stresses un-irrigated grasses, causing thinning stands and creating opportunities for weeds like bindweed and kochia to take over.
What is the approach for mowing fire buffers or riding lanes?
Fire buffers or riding lanes can be mowed more frequently, but care is taken not to over- mow, as this can stress the grass, leading to thinning and weed invasion. Increased mowing frequency may reduce grass density, so these areas will be monitored for weed control and overseeding needs.
Soil Preparation
WHAT DOES A SOIL TEST ACTUALLY TEST FOR? WHY IS IT IMPORTANT?
Most soils in Colorado are not ideal for growing anything other than native species that have adapted to these conditions. Colorado soils are usually high in clay content and have alkaline pH values, both of which are difficult for plants to grow in. A soil test will determine whether organic matter is needed to improve pH levels and soil texture, as well as if your soil is lacking in any major nutrients plants need for development.
DO I REALLY NEED TO PREPARE MY SOIL IF I’M GOING TO BE INSTALLING SOD?
Most of the time. Although sod rolls come with grass that’s already developed roots, their roots won’t do much good for the grass if they can’t penetrate the soil and soak up nutrients. Heavy clay soils and compacted soils can prevent root development can result in water-logged lawns that starve grass roots of oxygen. Adding topsoil or amending the existing soil with organic matter will assist in water infiltration and drainage, improve soil pH, and increase nutrient cycling.